# Chitubox ## Hiding Parts During Processing > [!WARNING] > If you hide parts in chitubox, it will not show up in chitubox (expected) nor in thumbnail for the ctb, even when inserted into the Saturn 2. However, the **hidden parts still print!** Thus hiding can easily **lead to mistakes** and I don't recommend it. I did it and forgot about the other parts, thought I was printing just a base and printed the whole model again (luckily they only overlapped a little bit since I repositioned base, but it could've ruined my base print) # Handling Failures ## Parts Stuck To FEP After trying several ways and many failed prints, the best way to remove stuck items is to drain the VAT, use plastic tool (or sponge, but I don't have) to help push resin through drain (don't have to get all of it), and then just **push on the bottom of FEP from underneath**. Stuck parts will pop off. Use a plastic tool carefully to slide under a corner and remove. Once done, you can refill VAT and get to printing. Don't bother with IPA. I did also try the common method of draining resin and adding IPA into the VAT to let it soak. This method was far less effective. Maybe I didn't wait long enough or use enough IPA, but it's all unnecessary. Don't bother with IPA. > [!WARNING] > What you should not do is use a sharp tool like metal blade, and be careful with points of plastic scraper when trying to pop and lift out of VAT. Don't pierce the FEP. I have done it when I was more dumb - push from the bottom to make space and easier to get tool under part without force. ## Tips to contain resin mess ![[SLA Resin Handling Guide for 3D Printing - 11 Tips for Containing the Mess and Keeping Things Safe.mp4]] - Maybe get additional tub or two (He got from JoAnn's) for IPA / cleaning. He has a clean IPA, dirty IPA, and build plate one. I probably wouldn't store wham bam plate in a tub when not in use, but idk. If getting tubs, stackable, lid, and flat bottom. - need more space and slap mats. Just do everything on slap mat, then put outside for an hour. - toothbrush to use on parts when cleaning with IPA - two gloves when getting build plate off and removing print. One glove for pretty much everything else and most items are clean and should never have resin on them. - clean build plate after removing part before removing two gloves - put VAT on paper towel when cleaning it, not on slap mat. Slap mat(s) have resin on them and you want to be careful to not get any on bottom of VAT - re-using resin - sit outside for a couple hours, bring inside and let sit for a day, then strain. Put big blob after straining out in sun again by itself (he plopped it on a paper plate) Other video [5 Big Mistakes Beginners Make with Resin 3D Printing - YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HeBpAnBPc8) recommends not using IPA to clean FEP because it fogs it. Instead just cut up microfiber cloth into tiny pieces and then he uses a few to wipe it down. idk about this. ## Other Issues ### FEP Replacement It isn't too hard to replace the FEP and when it gets holes in it you will need to. The hole in my experience tend to start small and you can still print but you may have a missing spot or two if it's blocking light on print screen from getting through. You can easily get resin that leaks through the hole off the print screen because it's glass (same as cleaning glass windows). To replace the FEP the biggest annoyance (at least on Saturn 2) is there are so many screws. It's probably 40 screws you have to undo and then redo. It takes about an hour. ### Proper Usage Of Wham Bam Systems These flex plates do make getting your print off very easy. When job is done, just pop flex plate off the build plate and give it a slight bend over a slap mat, and your figure pops off. It works even better if you use a raft (I started using skate rafts). The biggest challenge is wham bam systems flex plate has a tiny tab that sticks out past the build plate so you can remove it from the build plate. Makes sense. However, on the Saturn 2 it is very challenging to level the build plate. The tab takes away precious mm of forgiveness so it has to be absolutely perfectly centered or the tab scrapes the side of the VAT when build plate lowers. Of course, it would be easier to get it centered if you level with the VAT in place, but if you level with a sheet of paper and no VAT like you are supposed to, it can take many rounds. ### Get Better For Cleaning Parts I ramped up from cleaning in a small plastic bin of IPA, to cleaning with an Elegoo cleaning station with 2 elegoo cleaning containers filled with IPA. The cleaning station with double clean (dirty IPA and clean IPA) does make the process easier for sure with a little structure, and the cleaning station containers are big enough for most prints to fit in. Cleaning the build plate I still do over a slap mat currently with a spray bottle. Saturn 2 build plate doesn't fit. I do need to get better about my process for cleaning and recycling the IPA. I'm working on it but suspect my final smooth process will involve doing it more often before it gets super dirty, draining into other clear containers (not cleaning station), and setting those outside for a few days in the sun. ## Terminology - **Build head** or **build plate** is the piece that things build on